Day 38
12/9/2010
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Koonalda Homestead |
Where do we start, so much to talk about today. An early start , well we were on the road by 8-45am and that is really good for us, stopped at Eucla and sent off the blog as this is the first time we have had coverage since leaving Norsman, it was too early to ring Brett and check on the Thomas front, we pray that all things are going well.
We were heading for Koonalda Homestead (31’27’368s 129’51’521e) in the Nularbor Nation Pk, this was once a working sheep station and refueling point on the Original Eyre Highway, today, the homestead is owned by the National Pk and appears to be slowly being renovated. It is open for travelers to stop over and camp; this was our plan, what I had been told coupled with what I had read it was a 14kl dirt road leading off the new Eyre Highway. Well, the first 5kl is exposed rock and extremely rough, the following 9kl is brown clay that when wet turns immediately to mush also was full of pot holes with a number of water crossings (most people call them large puddles but us 4x4 people use the term water crossing), it took us an hour to drive the 14kl. We set up camp, had lunch then went for a walk, this place is fantastic, if ever in the area take the time and have a look. The homestead and shearers quarters have been built out of railway sleepers, the rafters for the verandah are railway iron, the doors and windows were from the original telegraph station at Eucla, inside there are still some beds, not for me thanks, the wood stove is there although not working, large bathroom, kitchen, all bedrooms are larger than standard double bedroom, loo out on the veranda next to the laundry. All power was generated on the property via a diesel generator.
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Sheryle serving petrol at the servo |
As part of the station business was supplying fuel to the travelling public, a single electric bowser with in ground tank is still there although not in a suitable working condition, Sheryle thought we were back in the servo and wanted to serve petrol. Moments of thought by Sheryle; it would be a high probability that very dear friends of ours Bob & Clare Clark would have stopped at this very pump on their two crossings of the Nularbor in about 1970 and 1974, this bought a special meaning to us being here now.
Across from the servo was the shearers quarters, this is where most people stay, there is a new water tank and a working fireplace, there still needs to be a lot of work done, something that maybe the 4x4 association could take up with the National Pk. The shearing shed was great, the homestead was vacated in 1988 yet you can still smell the sheep and lanolin from the wool, the timbers are still smooth, on walking in one would think it was still in use except there are no tools, sheep,dogs and people.
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Clay Dam Cave |
There is not one but two grave yards of cars that failed to make the journey across the Nularbor, they have been picked clean years ago most likely to help others complete their journey. Not only cars but trucks also, the tray of an old wind up tipper truck, this reminded me of the one my father had back in the 50’s and it was a real gut buster to wind when it was full, trust me.
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Clouds before the storm |
Looking westward we could see a storm brewing, thunder and lightning in the distance, we felt we must make an early decision either stay and take our chances on getting out tomorrow or leave now while we know we can get out albeit slowly, the latter was our decision. Once on the rocky ground at the 5kl mark we started looking for a camp spot, a nice clearing was selected (31’33’580s 129’54’108e), again make camp and hang out some washing, this is just too good. After a coffee it was walk time, looking at the clouds build up in the west and hearing the thunder with the sheet lightning we continued our walk, turned a corner and there in front of us was this humungous hole in the ground, we had walked upon Clay Dam Cave, OH boy, this was great even took our mind off the storm, the perimeter circumference about 100 metres, depth 50 metres, what a hole in the ground, many photos were taken. On returning to camp it was decided that we turn the car & van around so as we could have the car on rock for a take off if need be. The rain came, within 2 minutes it was hang on Sheryle I am moving the car NOW, within this 2 minutes the ground was slosh to walk on, we are currently camping on the rocky road, camp 3 for tonight.
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Storm clouds with the sun to the north |
The cloud formation as the storm was moving in was incredibly magnificent, this band of blue, black and grey cloud some smooth rounded longitudinal looking while just behind swirling black with other sections grey puffy, at the northern end bright sunlight and blue sky, such a privilege to be in a position to see such a sight, again many photos. When we first made camp 2 there was a strong wind from the north east, then there was a complete drop in the wind and quite still almost eerie, the storm was in the west and a distance from us, the wind came up again from the west although not strong but in came the clouds the large front passed then the rain came, our decision to move a) from the homestead and b) from camp 2 was certainly the correct move.
Tomorrow, off to the Head of the Bight to see the whales, we have been told there is a white calf there at the moment.
Catch you tomorrow
John & Sheryle